London Fashion Week commenced on Thursday with an unexpected appearance by Charles III, only hours after headlines were dominated by the dramatic arrest of his brother, Prince Andrew.
The development cast a shadow over an event typically celebrated for spotlighting emerging designers and fresh creative voices.
The monarch caught attendees off guard when his vehicle arrived outside a runway presentation by British-Nigerian designer Tolu Coker. His visit came on a day when news outlets were focused on Andrew’s arrest on suspicion of misconduct in public office linked to his past dealings with the late US sex offender Jeffrey Epstein.
As Charles greeted well-wishers, a member of the public shouted a question about Andrew, a remark the king appeared not to acknowledge.
After exchanging handshakes with fashion executives and creatives, the monarch took his seat in the front row between British Fashion Council chief executive Laura Weir and renowned British designer Stella McCartney.
Thursday’s appearance formed part of a series of official engagements undertaken by the king, signalling an effort to maintain a sense of continuity and routine despite the unfolding controversy.
Dressed elegantly in a tailored grey suit with turned-up trouser hems, Charles later presented McCartney with a scarf after touring exhibition stands displaying garments from various designers.
Among those set to showcase their collections in the coming days is 27-year-old Joshua Ewusie, an emerging British designer of Ghanaian heritage. He is preparing for his second runway presentation under his label “E.W.Usie”.
Ewusie has benefited from support provided by The King’s Foundation, a charity established by Charles, which helped him secure studio space shortly after graduating from Central Saint Martins. One of the foundation’s collaborators is luxury fashion house Chanel.
Royal Flavour
London Fashion Week is widely recognised for cultivating rising talent rather than relying solely on established global brands. Ewusie reflects that spirit, embodying the platform’s role in elevating new voices within the industry.
His hometown of London, home to several prestigious fashion institutions, offers “great support for young designers,” Ewusie told AFP in advance of his Sunday showcase.
“There are so many opportunities, I think, that London gives to help young brands start,” he added.
Coker, whose runway show was attended by the king, established her label in 2018. Her latest collection featured refined, predominantly unisex pieces influenced by themes of identity and cultural diversity. Organisers noted that the presentation emphasised “craftsmanship, sustainability and the creative industries”.
They added that Charles’s attendance underscored “British fashion’s place on the world stage”.
Elsewhere, at the Waldorf Hotel, members of the fashion community gathered to honour veteran designer Paul Costelloe, who passed away in November at the age of 80. Costelloe’s romantic, tailored runway presentations had been a fixture on opening day since the event began in 1984.
His son, William Costelloe, now oversees the brand as creative director. Ahead of its Autumn/Winter 2026 opening show, the label posted on social media: “A new season. A powerful moment. A legacy moving forward.”
Other prominent designers returning to the London catwalk include Harris Reed and Richard Quinn, while British luxury house Burberry is scheduled to close the week on Monday evening.
Additional labels bringing a regal touch to the runway include brands favoured by Catherine, Princess of Wales, such as Emilia Wickstead, Edeline Lee and Erdem Moralioglu, who are all staging shows during the week.
Fashion Incubator
Notably absent from this season’s schedule is Northern Irish designer Jonathan Anderson, long regarded as one of London Fashion Week’s headline attractions in recent years.
The 41-year-old assumed leadership at Dior last June, leaving limited time to focus on his own brand, JW Anderson, which he launched in 2008.
Although London has faced increasing competition from fashion capitals such as Paris and Milan in recent years, it continues to hold its reputation as a breeding ground for up-and-coming talent.
The British Fashion Council’s NewGen programme plays a central role in nurturing emerging designers by offering financial backing and mentorship, enabling many promising creatives to gain recognition through the London platform.
What you should know
King Charles III made a surprise appearance at London Fashion Week shortly after Prince Andrew’s arrest on suspicion of misconduct in public office linked to Jeffrey Epstein.
The monarch attended Tolu Coker’s show and carried out other public duties, projecting normalcy amid controversy.
The event continues to spotlight young designers such as Joshua Ewusie, supported by The King’s Foundation, while established names like Burberry and Stella McCartney also feature prominently.
Jonathan Anderson is absent this season following his move to Dior.
